MARINE EPOXY RESINS (NON BLUSHING)
..Marine Epoxy Resin..
BASIC NO BLUSH (tm) MARINE EPOXY
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Find us (Progressive Epoxy Polymers) and our marine epoxies in the WoodenBoat web site and "Good Old Boat" magazines web site. These are the "home ports" of the American working class boating community. We are very proud of our connection with these key boating leaders.
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Cedar strip canoe using Marine Epoxy and India Spar Varnish
NEW TO EPOXY? Learn about the major 2-part epoxy product groups
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See how Sunken Yacht is saved by epoxies applied underwater
"Paul, you have outstanding products. Every product has out performed the highly advertised units I purchased elsewhere for past projects. Thank you." (Dick - email 11/10/13)
Before you buy anything from anyone, we HIGHLY SUGGEST you CALL OR EMAIL US (24/7/365). Let's make sure you have the right products for the job, an understanding of how to use them and a feel for what might go wrong. And if you purchase our products feel free to CALL OR EMAIL US again (24/7/365) before you use them for "tips and tricks" or just some "hand-holding." Perhaps when you're done you'll let us put up some of our pictures on our web site.
Returning customer (9/14)
Paul - You Rock.!! I know your going through some rough times; but your products, your site, has a Big impact on many of us 'little guys' out there. Keep the faith, you are providing a very valuable, service & advice. Your products allow our family to enjoy times in parts of the house that they normally wouldn't - and provide Great bonding time, when the kids decide to hang out with dad, in 'his' area.!!! It is thanks to YOU, and Your products, your support, that we ae able to do this. Thank YOU, Very Much.
We'll send those photos, of our old place, and when this is done, the new one. You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You.
customer's Basic No Blush (tm) epoxy boat building project
Part 1 (non blushing epoxy resin systems)
All epoxies ("goo") are not the same. Look for non blushing marine epoxies - even if they cost a few bucks more. With a blushing marine epoxy (most of the epoxies sold are blushing epoxies) - you might always wonder if you have a good bond between coats and why you're paint isn't sticking. Plus you have to wash the surface between coats to remove the visible or invisible blush.
If the epoxy manufacturers really cared about your needs they would only sell you non-blushing epoxies (speaking in general terms - there are always exceptions) and not even offer blushing epoxies upon unsuspecting buyers.
More about amine blush - CLICK HERE (amine epoxy blush).
Part 2 (epoxy additives I)
Nonyl phenol is a non solvent additive that can be used added to either Part A or Part B. It does have some useful properties, but is often more widely used to 'water down' the epoxy, making it much cheaper to manufacturer and giving the vendor much higher profits. Nonyl can also retard the drying of enamel paint over epoxy. If you want to enamel paint your epoxy project either use a primer over the epoxy or use our Premium No Blush epoxy. More about Nonyl Phenol - CLICK HERE (nonyl phenol).
Part 3 (epoxy additives II)
FORMALDEHYDE - one of the major epoxy vendors uses formaldehyde in their curing agents! Check the MSDS of your vendor's epoxy for this chemical. (formaldehyde in competitor's curing agent - click here).
Part 4 (non hazmat alternatives)
Some epoxies are non-hazmat to ship (again, very few) - big thing here is that the non hazmat curing agents generally have a more gentle exotherm and slower more uniform curing - (doesn't get super hot, melt containers and turn hard in the blink of an eye). Note that the hazmat epoxies must be shipping by ground, not air, but generally no additional cost. Non-hazmat curing agents tend to be amber colored, hazmat curing agents can be amber or clear.
Hazmat or not - the ones with a more gentle exotherm always seemed better to work with - no worry of 'bubbling up or melting' the areas you are working on.
Part 5 (formulated marine epoxies and pricing)
The 'serious' marine epoxies are formulated using the raw resins manufactured by the giant chemical companies. Many (some?) low cost epoxy vendors merely repackage these raw bulk resins. Not a good thing!
The "drum to jug" repackagers come and go. New one seem to pop up every week. You want do do business with folks that actually formulate their marine epoxies - going two or three steps beyond the repackagers.
So who are the marine epoxy formulators?
*Progressive Epoxy Polymers (that's us --- WHO ELSE GIVES YOU THE NAMES OF THEIR COMPETITORS ON THEIR WEB SITE?)
- Note that we (Progressive Epoxy Polymers) are the only family owned company on that list. Epoxies have been our focus since 1994 - 20 years of 2 part epoxy every single working day. We are also the smallest of those four companies. Our standard marine epoxy, Basic No Blush, is equal or better (SEE USER COMMENTS) than the other formulated marine epoxies and up to half the price of their marine epoxies (our prices/markups are too low/small to attract distributors - so we sell only via the internet and pass the 'distributor markup' to you - more on marine epoxy pricing).
A few 'repackagers' offer their epoxy at slightly less than we charge. The majority of them actually charge more, or a lot more, than we do for our formulated Basic No Blush marine. epoxy.
An ever increasing number of experienced DIY and profressional Boat Builders consider Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy to be the BEST product available (performance, consistency, properties, support and price). They've certainly tried all the other brands over the years. No other marine epoxy has our level of customer satisfaction - or rave reviews. Our customers can always buy cheaper 'repackaged' resins or the $$$ name brands at their local marine supply store. Instead they take the effort to always order our Basic No Blush (tm) Marine Epoxy either online or over the phone.
Part 6 (mix ratios)
Mix ratios as close to 1:1 or 2:1 are better as they tolerate slight errors in the mix ratio better. Given an error in a 5:1 mix ratio and you can suddenly be mixing it at 4:1 and not knowing it. The result might not be good. More about mix ratio errors - CLICK HERE (epoxy mix ratios). Most epoxies have a 1:1, 2:1 or 3:1 mix ratio (by volume).
The part B curing agent is much more expensive than the part A resin. By designing their marine epoxies to use less curing agent per amount of part A resin, a company maximizes their profit at your expense.
THE EXPERT'S PICK - #1 RATED/BEST MARINE EPOXY - CLICK HERE .
And finally, evaluate your marine epoxy by what other users say about it.
Customer feedback and comments on Basic No Blush marine epoxy resin - CLICK HERE.
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And what about temperature? Our Basic No Blush epoxy resin comes with regular, slow (summer - 80's 90's), or fast (winter 30's and 40's) curing agents.
"Protecting surfaces under the
water sounds challenging, but
Paul Oman reveals the secrets
of third generation epoxy paints
that can be used and
Asia/Pacific Coatings Journal
Read this underwater epoxy article
"I feel that any person taking a boat to sea anywhere, anytime, should carry your product aboard and know how to
apply it. If I can assist you in distributing or advertising your product, I am more than happy to do so."
(Wet Dry 700 and/or Corro Coat FC 2100 A - keep 1 - 2 gallons onboard if you
Joy S. and Leslie B., US Yacht Banshee
Authors: Escape From Hermit Island
I have used the Wet Dry 700 epoxy putty as instructed and it is everything you said it was. I have sanded the boat bottom and filled and patched using the Wet Dry 700. Great stuff. I am traveling for work and will fair the hull when I get back. I will wipe down the hull with acetone to remove all the dust and then apply the ESP 155 epoxy sealer. Do I need to wait until it completely cures to begin applying Water Gard 300 epoxy barrier coat paint?
DID YOU KNOW...
Basic No Blush being used at boat
building school in the Pacific NW
(no better endorsement than that!)
The Wind & Oar Boat School is located in Portland, OR (http://wind-and-oar-boatschool.org/).
Currently (7/11) they are working on a St Ayles skiff, with a group of 10 completely novice women doing the build.
Its the first all women build and the first on the west coast. The St Ayles Skiff is a Iain Oughtred design done
for the Scottish Fisheries Museum and now the cornerstone of the Scottish Coastal Rowing Project (http://scottishcoastalrowing.org/).
Last fall WoodenBoat Publications picked up the concept and got 5 high schools in Maine to start the boat and I
am mirroring the idea for high schools in Portland. The first youth boat will start this fall but in the mean time
a group of women approached me about building one too. The Wind & Oar Boat School is building communities through
building boats. We encourage groups of all shapes and sizes to experience the camaraderie, team building, collaboration,
and self confidence that arise from working towards a common goal.
When it came time to decide about epoxies, the school turned to Michael Bogoger (Dory-man) for advice. He suggested your product and we've been extremely happy with it. The forgiving nature of the Basic No-Blush (tm) marine epoxy has been ideal for a school situation where many people are mixing and consistency is not necessarily high. Michael has covered our build on his blog several times and this link http://dory-man.blogspot.com/2011/06/wind-and-oar-boat-building-school.html) is to one of his posts where you can see us using the No Blush epoxy product.
Whether you want a group team building exercise or a grade school introduction to wood and water, the Wind & Oar Boat School will tailor a course to fit your needs. Our first build is a group of 10 women, of diverse ages, who without any woodworking experience are now building a 22 foot St Ayles Skiff.
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Epoxy coatings are used because of their
outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond
Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical
reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard
Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.
Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.
By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.
Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).
The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.
End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.
Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.
Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.
It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.
How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.
Buy Marine Epoxy at our 3rd party storefront --- ("EPOXIES"section)
Goto page two
(MARINE EPOXY PRODUCTS AND LINKS)
ONLINE PRODUCT CATALOGS
PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, Inc
of marine catalog section (blue background)
MARINE - CLEAR EPOXIES
Section Two FILLERS THICKENERS ADDITIVES
Section Three THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
Section Four EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)
Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS
Section Six NON-SKID DECK COATINGS
Section Seven MARINE REPAIR PRODUCTS
Section Eight MISC. MARINE PRODUCTS
MASSIVE BOAT HOW TO - ISSUES - HELP WEB LINK SITE
Residential / Commercial / DIY Catalog
of residential/commercial catalog section (brown background)
Section B FLOOR EPOXIES (regular and non-skid products), SEALERS, ACCESSORIES
Section C THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
Section D CLEAR EPOXIES
Section E NON-EPOXY PAINTS COATINGS SEALERS
Section F MIX-IN ADDITIVES
Section G OTHER PRODUCTS
Section H SURFACE PREPARATION PRODUCTS
Section I MISC. ACCESSORIES
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